intro story Coast / Estuary

Coast / Estuary

Coastal systems are among the most dynamic physical systems on earth and are subject to a large variety of forces. The morphodynamic changes occurring to coastlines worldwide are of great interest and importance. These changes occur as a result of the erosion of sediments, its subsequent transport as bed load or suspended load, and eventual deposition. 
 
Estuaries are partly enclosed water bodies that have an open connection to the coast. Estuaries generally have one or more branching channels, intertidal mudflats and/or salt marshes. Intertidal areas are of high ecological importance and trap sediments (sands, silts, clays and organic matter).
Within the Delft3D modelling package a large variation of coastal and estuarine physical and chemical processes can be simulated. These include waves, tidal propagation, wind- or wave-induced water level setup, flow induced by salinity or temperature gradients, sand and mud transport, water quality and changing bathymetry (morphology). Delft3D can also be used operationally e.g. storm, surge and algal bloom forecasting. 
 
On this discussion page you can post questions, research discussions or just share your experience about modelling coastal and/or estuarine systems with Delft3D FM. 
 

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Sub groups
D-Flow Flexible Mesh
DELWAQ
Cohesive sediments & muddy systems

 

 

Message Boards

wave propagation

PM
partho mondal, modified 8 Years ago.

wave propagation

Youngling Posts: 19 Join Date: 3/24/11 Recent Posts
hi,

I have a vet basic theoretical question to the technical staff as well as experts working in the field. As a general theory as waves propagate into shallow water from deep water its energy gets concentrated due to shoaling effect, wavelength gets shorter and significant wave height gets higher. But due to the limit of H/L (~1/7) wave breaks. My question is when I am modeling wave in shallow water (<20m) SWH & wavelength shows a decreasing pattern as it approaches shore; is it due to the depth induced breaking? Isn’t it then violating the general theory of wave propagation? If I switch off the depth-induced breaking option SWH increases but sometimes approach very unrealistic value. i am a bit confused. Any explanation?

regards,
ppm