# Coast / Estuary

Coastal systems are among the most dynamic physical systems on earth and are subject to a large variety of forces. The morphodynamic changes occurring to coastlines worldwide are of great interest and importance. These changes occur as a result of the erosion of sediments, its subsequent transport as bed load or suspended load, and eventual deposition.

Estuaries are partly enclosed water bodies that have an open connection to the coast. Estuaries generally have one or more branching channels, intertidal mudflats and/or salt marshes. Intertidal areas are of high ecological importance and trap sediments (sands, silts, clays and organic matter).
Within the Delft3D modelling package a large variation of coastal and estuarine physical and chemical processes can be simulated. These include waves, tidal propagation, wind- or wave-induced water level setup, flow induced by salinity or temperature gradients, sand and mud transport, water quality and changing bathymetry (morphology). Delft3D can also be used operationally e.g. storm, surge and algal bloom forecasting.

On this discussion page you can post questions, research discussions or just share your experience about modelling coastal and/or estuarine systems with Delft3D FM.

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### simulating a wave-flume experiment with regular waves in wave modul

SF

#### simulating a wave-flume experiment with regular waves in wave modul

Youngling Posts: 5 Join Date: 3/8/18

Hello, We have carried out  a wave-flume experiment involving a T= 4 s regular wave with H=0.85 m and now I want to simulate the experiment in delft 3D. The problem is that the simulation only works in spectral space and I don't know which parameters have to be validated in order to simulate regular waves.

the problems are:

1.If I enter a value of h_sig= 0,85 m (boundery conditions -> edit conditions-> significant wave height) the simulation returns a value of h_sig =0,4 m

2. in the first element h_sig decreases from 0,4 m to 0,25m , which means, that there is an energy dissipation in the first element which makes no sense