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Long waves and bottom friction at first cell

William BRUCH, modified 4 Months ago.

Long waves and bottom friction at first cell

Capillary Posts: 1 Join Date: 1/16/17 Recent Posts
Dear all,

I'm using the Kingsday version of XBeach and am propagating waves from a sensor into my domain.

Having obtained my HsIG from the sensor (infragravity wave height) I am trying to compare what XBeach is making as HsIG at the same location (so the first cell of the domain, offshore). The sensor feeds the model its wave spectra using the vardens input option.

Whilst the sensor HsIG shows no apparent relation to the tidal signal, XBeach appears to have a HsIG that varies with the tide, with higher HsIG values with higher tidal conditions. This occurs even if my bottom friction is zero.

So my question is how does XBeach create its infragravity waves from a given spectra, and why would it be depth dependant when it is not the case for the sensor ?

I hope my question was clear and thanks a lot for you help !!


tide long waves